tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4519319818452068646.post5913943530427886344..comments2024-02-16T18:32:38.635-05:00Comments on The Back 40K: Tyranid Painting QuestionFarmpunkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09622091234212120598noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4519319818452068646.post-5112647404193800882011-07-17T22:10:25.371-04:002011-07-17T22:10:25.371-04:00Points taken, but once upon a time I was a teenage...Points taken, but once upon a time I was a teenager with a cheap-o badger airbrush and a few cans of propellent. Seriously, you don't have to be an expert to use the simpler/cheaper ones. The thing GW sells would do.<br /><br />I mean, I could tell him to hand-brush his army, but how crazy-long would that take? If you can find a spray can in the right color, sure. But if he wants the right colors to match that pic, he's going to have to mix them.SandWyrmhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02265244938930651317noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4519319818452068646.post-89231348329869009522011-07-17T18:35:49.526-04:002011-07-17T18:35:49.526-04:00I have to agree with Karitas...having an admitted ...I have to agree with Karitas...having an admitted novice or worse use an airbrush will just frustrate him further and might even turn him off.<br /><br />Krylon makes a Satin Ivory that acts like a foundation paint works wonderfully with all washes and concides with Bleached Bone.<br /><br />Everything else I believe was spot on. The foundation spray, filler paints and then washing 2-3 times is the EASIEST way to get 2000 pts on the table in a week or less.Edgehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14117556344326403562noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4519319818452068646.post-12849115680776815542011-07-16T12:51:27.867-04:002011-07-16T12:51:27.867-04:00I really like the idea of the 2 wash combo. I thi...I really like the idea of the 2 wash combo. I think that'll give great results. <br /><br />Rather than using GW washes though, the Vallejo ones might be a good option. <br />Reason 1 is that they are much cheaper. They're thicker too so will last longer (can be diluted more). <br />Reason 2 is that that they don't produce such an even finish. Normally that's a problem but for 'nids I think that's actually an advantage. You'd get an oiley/ichorish look to the areas where it pools (normally in the joints and recesses).<br /><br />Either way, post pics of the end result!<br /><br />Oh and if you don't want to buy an airbrush, Army Painter do really great primer sprays. Their skeleton one could be a good budget option.Koronahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08250234754318025124noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4519319818452068646.post-55648703851775206802011-07-16T01:46:20.908-04:002011-07-16T01:46:20.908-04:00Solid advice, but I'd be a bit concerned SandW...Solid advice, but I'd be a bit concerned SandWyrm about asking a total novice to jump in with an airbrush?<br /><br />I'd maybe suggest..<br /><br />1. Base the whole model with scortched brown.<br />2. Drybrush with bleached bone (proper drybrushing mind you, not wetbrush :) )<br />4. wash with devlan (compulsory "make it look better juice")<br />5. highlight the soft parts with beached again, then watered down bone,<br />6. hit the edges of plates with a bleached bone edge highlight.<br /><br />it wouldnt look quite as good or smooth and Sandwyrms suggestion, but it'd be a good, quick tabletop army, using a few paints and teachniques that someone new should be able to get into.<br /><br />as you gain more confidence, start using more advanced techniques, so save your HQ and big models till last.Karitashttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06811166981334472345noreply@blogger.com