In part one of this series, I showed you how to cut up the old standard Chimera kit, sand it, and assemble the roof pieces for the set-back look. Now we're going to clean up the seams so you don't even know that they're there.
First off, we need to cut 2 small pieces of plastic card that are roughly 1" x 3/8" in size.
These small pieces of card will be used to cover the inside of the lasgun ball-socket ports. Cut another small piece of scrap card to cover the inside of the seam at the back of the top-hatch.
The hatch-piece will strengthen the seam and give us something to build a hatch on top of later. The card behind the lasgun ports will provide reinforcement for the putty we'll be using to fill them.
Now, cut up some small pieces of scrap card and fill up the lasgun holes as best you can. This will keep us from having to use multiple coats of putty to fill them.
Now for the modeling putty. I use MMD Fast drying Green Putty from the local hobby store.
To apply the putty to the model, I use a small palette knife that you should be able to find at any art store. Palette knives have thin, flexible blades that are perfect for applying putty and other materials to models.
Cover the ports with the putty and let it dry while we do the next bit, which is to cover the big gaping hole that we left at the front of the riser.
First, cut a piece of thin plastic card (1/32 of an inch or so) that is the same width and a little bit higher than the riser.
Now sand down the bottom leading edge of the plastic card so that it will lie flat on the roof in front of the riser.
Then glue the card into place and let it dry.
Once it's dry, carefully use your X-Acto knife (with a new blade) to cut away the excess card.
Then putty the top and sides of the seam.
Now for the sanding!
To help get nice, crisp edges when sanding, cut out a piece of scrap plastic card and glue your sanding paper to it. I use a spray adhesive called "Super 77" from 3M that does the trick nicely. Just spray the card (Outside!) and then press it to the paper. Trim around the edge with a knife and you're ready!
I put a coarse paper on one side and a finer finishing grain on the other.
This makes it easy to hold the paper flat when sanding. So your model edges will stay very crisp.
Sand away the putty until the surface is smooth to the touch.
Here's what the model should look like when you're done sanding.
Go ahead and put the tracks on like so.
Then cover the tops as shown. You'll have to sand the forward track covers a bit to get them to match up flat to the rear covers.
And that's it for Part II!
Continue to Part III...
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